Saturday, January 2, 2010

I think I need to switch to surfing...



Once upon a time I snowboarded and was pretty darn good at it.  Think my dormant-10-years skills will cross over?  If my sewing goals don't pan out, perhaps I can convince my husband to move us seaside so I can start a new hobby? Yeah, maybe if I was 10 years younger.

In unrelated news, the bobbins for my sewing machine still are not here.  The one it came with is full of thread that will not work for the project I had planned for this week.  I am working on something else (with the thread in the lonely bobbin) but it's a gift and such a crazy experiment, I'm afraid it's well on it's way to sharing the fate of the ill-executed overalls. sigh.  Anyway, pending new bobbin arrival, weekly projects on hold.  Sorry to all five of you who regularly read this.  I know it's a huge disappointment.  May I suggest drowning your sorrows in some Underwater Sister's fabric?  I'm trying really hard to come up with a specific reason to buy some, you know, other than it's adorable and stuff. 

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Handmade Christmas gifts

I made a few Christmas gifts this year.  I've decided that I want to make quite a bit more of the gifts I give next year.  It's much more satisfying and just feels more, I don't know, real. 




Punk sock elephant and  monkey for our nephew, using the classic Rockford Red Heel pattern.


The hobby horse I posted a few weeks back was for another nephew


Reusable kitchen towels for my mother-in-law

Jewelry board for my niece.
 Sorry, no link for a tutorial.  I'm sure there are some online.  My mom just told me what to do--basically: wooden frame, wire mesh.  Modge podge torn paper, add hooks to bottom.  Styrofoam wrapped in fabric glued in place. Handstamped name w/ acrylic paint. Badda bing badda boom: jewerly board.


I also made my sister some rockin' lounge pants, but never did get a picture.  Probably for the best.  I kind of did a rush job on them, sans pattern, and had very little material + my old dying machine = my husband asking if they would actually fit a human.  They did.  I tried them on and though low rise, they did  in fact fit my human self.  They just looked really wonky laying flat.  I've mentioned that I need to improve my pattern design skills, right?  Yeah.  Thankfully, they were more of a joke gift, in addition to the other gift I got for her.

I have some fun ideas for next year, especially for my kids.  Hopefully next Christmas will be much more personal and much more handmade.

Week Two (for reals): Cowboy boot Christmas stocking


I had come up with the idea for this stocking last year, planning to make it for my youngest.  But I never got around to it, and then I put off making it this year until the very last minute.  It was finished late afternoon on the 23rd.  But in my defense, it took a long LONG time to do all the handstiching. 

It's just made out of left-over fake suede from Halloween's cowboys costumes.  I used my 3 year old's cowboy boot to free hand a basic cowboy boot-esqe pattern.  The tough part was getting both sides of the stocking to pretty much look the same.  I had originally planned on doing some reverse applique, and you can see the cut-out markings.  I dumped that idea when I discovered that the thing was going to take me much longer than planned.  I still kinda wish I had done them, but whatever.   I used ballpoint pen to sketch the stiching pattern, with a full bottle of hairspray nearby for erasing.  Not exactly professional, but I never claimed to be.

I lined it with a really cheap shiny fabric, which I also had onhand.  The stabilizer is a fleece that I bought in blulk for a song a few years ago (and use for pretty much all projects that require some sort of thin batting).
 Here are some detail shots


And the reverse side


The pattern for the actual stocking is one I came up with three years ago when I made the rest of our stockings.  I decided then that I wanted all our stockings to be different with one of two basic body shapes (though I've pretty much decided that I want to take in the two "fat" stockings and make all the stockings the curvy/thin shape), so that as children were added no one would feel left out because I could no longer find a certain material/whatever.  Plus, I like the way they all look together, all un-matchy-matchy


I took last week off from my weekly projects.  You know, it was Christmas and all.  Plus, Week Two took me into last week.  Though I got a new [to me] fancy-shmancy sewing machine, and did play with it quite a bit, I didn't do any projects.  I'll be back later this week with my Week Three project. 

Friday, December 18, 2009

Week Two: a preview


Week Two's project is turning out to be a bit more time consuming than I first anticipated when I started it four hours ago.  four.stinking.hours.ago. Blah.

But I needed to document that I have, indeed, worked on a sewing project this week.  It's just still in the pre-sewing stages on account of my brilliant idea to hand embroider.  Four hours and I'm not even half way done.

Hopefully finished pictures will be up soon.  By Christmas, at the latest, or else where will Santa leave my toddler's hard-earned lump of coal?

Friday, December 11, 2009

Week One: Pinstriped Overalls

I've decided I want to improve my sewing. I've set myself a goal to do at least one sewing project a week. Technically, I decided this two weeks ago, so this is really Week Three of the goal. And, really, I've done at least one sewing project every week for the past four. But since I'm introducing it here, now, we'll label this Week One. Unless of course I completely slack and someone asks how long I lasted, then this will totally be Week Three. I mean Week Four. Whatever.

On to the project...


I've had in my head for some time an idea for some adorable dressy overalls made out of men's slacks. I went to the local thrift store and found a pair of pinstriped dress pants that looked in really good shape.



Cost $6.
And then I got to work destroying them.


Here is where we retitle this post "Lost in Translation". The overalls are freaking amazing in my head. Seriously, want to cry so cute. But yeah, getting that out of my head and as an actual finished garment? Not so easy. Here is the best picture of what I have as of tonight...


No, my baby doesn't feel well, how did you know?

And yes, he is wearing navy blue slippers and navy blue trimmed shirt with the overalls. Feeling crazy, I guess.



My favorite part of them are the cuffs...

Everything else, well, not so cute. As he ran around in them for the 15 minutes or so this afternoon, I kept laughing because really, their pretty much not cute at all. Here, proof...



If that crotch doesn't convince you, that's what she said, um, hows about some back action...



Wow. Yeah, so anyway not so much what I had envisioned.

BUT, this is exactly why I started this little goal. I really would like to improve not just my construction skills, but my pattern-design skills as well. And from my four hours of dealing with this scary little number today, I've learned a lot already. A $6 lesson in how not to make overalls, assuming you had Cute as a goal.

I may just try this project again. I've already picked out a seam or two with some other ideas to try in mind. Maybe the pinstriped overalls of my dreams will one day exist. But until then, there's always next week.



Thursday, December 10, 2009

So you want to applique a prefold...

I get a lot of hits on this lame little blog from people searching "how to applique a prefold". I figure it's gotta be disappointing to get here and discover I don't give any answers to that question. So, let's remedy that now.


HOW TO APPLIQUE A PREFOLD


1. The prefold needs to be prepped first. This is important, as the prefold will "quilt" with washing, and wreck havoc on anything you've sewn to it prior to prepping. To prep a prefold, I simply do a double cycle on hot in my washer, dry two cycles at the hottest setting in my dryer, then repeat once. If I'm going to be dyeing the prefold, I'll not repeat--it kills me to use that much water. Also make sure you've prewashed whatever fabric you're going to use for the applique. You can do this at the same time as your prefolds. I don't prewash fleece, since it won't shrink. It pills so fast, and is easier for me to work with before it has been washed.
2. Sketch your design onto paper. You can print off an image with your computer, or simply sketch it from your head. This will give you something to work off of. Make sure that the sketch or printout fits within the perimeters of the prefold. If you want the image only down the center soaker area, measure that onto your sketch to keep things the right size.
3. Apply image to applique fabric. This step will vary on what you're most comfortable doing, and the fabric you're using. It's very difficult to draw on fleece and other high-texture fabrics, so I usually freehand cut, or if the design is more complicated, pin the sketch/printout to the fabric and cut. If you are drawing/tracing/sketching onto your applique fabric, make sure to do so on the negative "wrong" side, so that the markings won't show.
4. Cut out your applique.
5. Tack applique to your prefold, in position. You can use pins, or a basting stitch (wide stitch) on your machine/hand sew. Fleece actually stays in place fairly easily without tacking down, if you're feeling lazy, which I usually am.
6. Choose your stitch. Depending on your machine and fabric, your choices will vary. For a basic satin stitch (one that leaves a thick "outline") choose a zig zag and decrease the stitch length.  Choose this stitch for fabrics that fray easily, unless you want that look. For fabrics that hold their own, like fleece and other high weaves, you have more options. I like doing blanket or box stitches for visual interest, and to save thread.
7. Applique the prefold. Pick a starting point out of visual center. The eye naturally goes from top left to bottom right, so if you start your stitch at the top right or bottom left, it will be less noticable. Or something. It sounds good though, no? Go slowly and let the machine feed the fabric. There are lines on your machine, where the dogs (the little grabby guys that move up and down, pulling your fabric through the machine) and on your foot--even if it's just a thread cut out. Use those as your guide. I like to line the edge of my applique's fabric with the little line down the center of the foot, and make sure I keep straight that way. If you went with a satin/zig zag, go back over your stitches to get the desired "outline". No matter what stitch you used, backstitch at the begining and end to "seal" the stitch. Diapers [should] get washed a lot, you don't want your applique falling off.
8. Add details. I do a lot of appliques that have more stitching details than the actual applique itself. Often I use the satin stitch, for larger, more bold details. But for finer, smaller ones, I use a double straight stitch, where the machine goes over every stitch on it's own, so it looks like this: ll. It makes a thicker line than a regular straight stitch, but not near as bold as a satin stitch. Not all machines have this, so you can just choose a thicker, bolder colored thread in that case. Draw your details on in pencil, and just go over them with the machine, using the foot guides to keep your line in place. Or be crazy, and just eyeball it (i'm crazy proud of that detail work, so shamelss link to it). You can also handsew details, using embroidery floss, which is thicker than thread and will show up better.
If you want, cover up the negative side of your sewing. Flip your prefold over, see all the stitches on that side? If I've done a good job sewing, i actually like the way the negative side looks--all perfectly...negative...and stuff. But all that thread can irritate a baby's bum, and really other than showing off your flawless stitching, doesn't look so great. So...

9. Measure your center soaker area. Get the length and width, and then add 1/2 inch. Don't worry that your soaker is flawed, and the top measurement isn't the same as the bottom. I swear, they are all like that. Just go with the biggest measurement.

10. Cut out your fabric. Diaper or burp rag, you're going to want something that will absorb. Your basic cotton woven fabric will work, but isn't your best chioce. Especially if you are doing a diaper, you'll want something softer and more absorbant. Flannel and bamboo are good choices. Flannel will pill, but is easier to come by and you have more print choices, also cheaper. Avoid microfiber for a diaper. Microfiber absorbs like nobody's business, but it will also irritate the baby's skin, as it actually pulls moisture *out* of the skin. Fleece is okay and will keep moisture off the baby's bum, but will make things bulkier than they need to be. Also the pilling. Oh, the pilling!

11. Pin the fabric to the prefold. I am a sworn pinning-hater, but even I pin the fabric panel onto prefolds. Prefold soakers are irregular. Even high quality ones aren't going to be actually straight and center the length of the prfold, usually. Better to get the proper placement before sewing it down. See my opinion on picking stitches out of prefolds below. Folding 1/4 inch under as you go, try to follow the actual stitched line of the prefold soaker UNLESS you have a printed fabric, like stripes or checks, or some sort of line the eye can follow. For these, I go with the line of the fabric panel and not the soaker. You'll have a stitch line on the other side, but prefolds quilt well and assuming you use a like-colored thread, it shouldn't be too noticable. Not nearly noticible, in my opinion, as a line on the fabric that isn't followed.

12. Stitch the fabric panel on. Use a basic straight stitch, and keep as close to the edge as possible. I actually move my needle over, so as to get even closer to the edge. I like no more than 1/8th of an inch hem on my center panel. This also keeps the stitch in the presewn soaker stitch line on the opposite, showing side of the prefold. Remember to back stitch at begining and end.

13. Admire your work, you little seamstress, you. You just made your diaper stash that much more fun. And believe me, all you non cloth diaperers, diapers can be fun. No, really.



Miscellaneous information and tips...

**choose your prefold based on what you'll be using your prefold for. Cheap prefolds found at big box stores, like WalMart are good for burp rags, and not much else. If you are needing something to actually function as a diaper, you'll most likely have to go online, unless you have a local cloth diapering store in your area (ask around at natural food stores, etc) or a diaper service nearby you can purchase from. Even the so called Diaper Service Quality Gerbers (often labled "DSQ") don't work well as diapers. They're cheap and easy to come by, but not worth your money if you need them to absorb anything more than spitup. Quality prefolds are not that much more money (average $2/each) and are far superior. But again, if you are just wanting a burp rag, Gerbers are great for that.

Where I buy mine (and I do cloth diaper):
Basic, good functioning: All Together Diaper Company
Higher end, more specific sizing: Green Mountain Diaper Company

**Practice on scrap fabric. Seriously, do this. Picking out stitches from a prefold = lots of swearing and pulled fabric. Trust me on this, really. Make sure you like the stitch, that you can control the speed of your machine, and that your stitch lengths are good, all that stuff. Also, practice some turns, unless you're going to be doing all straight edges. pansy.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Diapers for Auction

The following will be available for bidding starting December 10th at Bloom for the Benson and Claire Skinner auction.



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Newborn sized, up to apx.12 lbs, fitted cloth diapers sewn using Darling Diaper pattern.

These are brand new, just sewn diapers ready to go. Two rows of snaps to grow with baby in rise, and snap-down for healing umbilical areas. Printed knit outers with coordinating colored snaps and serging. Inside is a layer of extra-absorbent bamboo fleece, topped with a silky, yet absorbent bamboo velour. Each diaper includes a snap-in doubler consisting of two layers of bamboo fleece and topped with bamboo velour. 

Bamboo is an ideal material for cloth diapers, being the softest and most absorbent natural material available. It does not need to be prepped, but will increase in absorbency with each washing, reaching its full potential after 8 or so washes. Cloth diapers should be washed with a small amount of detergent, never using bleach or fabric softeners, with an extra rinse. Dry on hot with NO fabric sheets.

**These are fitted diapers and require a cover to be water-proof.**


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Red Set—Tasty Treats and Tiny Tools



Inside of diapers with doublers

At largest and smallest settings

Back of diapers

***Tasty Treat does have a miss-set snap on the left wing. See picture. Will not affect function, other than not allowing diaper to size up to its last largest setting.***
Miss-set snap on Tasty Treats


-------Bidding starts at $8 for red set.

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Blue Set -- Helicopters and City Scene



Inside of diapers with doublers

At largest and smallest settings

Back of diapers



-------Bidding starts at $10 for blue set

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Green Set -- Stripes and Hiding Giraffes



Inside of diapers and doublers


Largest and smallest settings

Back of diapers


------Bidding starts at $10 for green set

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Diaper on 7lb baby with snap-down for umbilical in use

Same baby at apx 10 lbs on larger setting, higher rise